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333 West 500 North
Shelbyville, IN, 46176
United States

317-617-2773

America's heritage has stood in the fields and beside farm houses for over a century in the form of barns. Historic barns are becoming more difficult to find, and due to the increase in comercially zoned land are being destroyed. Reclaimed Barns & Beams reclaims the wood from these hand hewed, pinned barns that have stood the tests of time. It is our hope that we can transform this wood into vintage farm tables, chairs, ceiling beams, mantles and more. This will give us a chance to keep the history of these barns alive and with us for years to come.

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Resources and Tools

There is a lot of work to do. Figuring out how to do the work on top of it makes the task even harder. I wanted to provide a space where you could visit and get quick resources to help you with the project that you have had in mind for a while now. 

Together we can achieve anything!
Clad Wall with Reclaimed Lumber

Clad Wall with Reclaimed Lumber

Clad Wall tools to gather

Clad Wall tools to gather

Click the photo to find out what type of nailer you need?

Click the photo to find out what type of nailer you need?

Click the image to learn more.

Click the image to learn more.


Old Fashioned wood flooring!

This is Reclaimed Barn Siding turned over to create this old fashioned wood flooring. In the picture it has just been sanded and is waiting the next step. Instructions below.

POLYURETHANE:

I used Varathane brand Floor Finish in “satin” because I didn’t want super shinny floors, just a nice sheen. I also used water based because the smell of of the oil based Varathane was out of control — and it took way longer to dry between coats. 

I actually did 4 coats of polyurethane and did another VERY LIGHT sanding after the 2nd and 3rd coats (and then cleaning up any dust before applying the next coat).

I applied the polyurethane with a large foam pad on the end of a long pole (so I could do it standing up). I poured the polyurethane in a paint tray, then dipped his foam sponge in the poly, then quickly “brushed” the poly onto the floor in the direction of the grain. It’s best to make one single long pass across the entire length of the room before picking up the from sponge — otherwise you’ll be able to see where you started and stopped.

DRYING TIME:

If you are staining let the stain dry for 24 hours before starting the Satin and same with  poly — and then I only had to let that dry for a few hours in between coats. Once everything was finished, I let it dry another 24 hours before walking on it — and 72 hours before moving any furniture over it (and even then, I was really careful).


Brush the dirt away!

I think it is crazy the simplest tools make the toughest jobs easy at times. I use a plain ole shoe shine brush to clean up reclaimed lumber. It gets the dust, dirt and sawdust up and off of the wood. Makes things so much easier and it is cheap!

Just a girl taking down a barn... Don't ever let people tell you that you can't do something! #reclaimedlumber #womeninbusiess

A photo posted by Reclaimed Barns and Beams (@reclaimedbarnsandbeams) on

Click to download the PDF

Click to download the PDF

Click to download the PDF

Click to download the PDF

There is a lot of work to do. Figuring out how to do the work on top of it makes the task even harder. I wanted to provide a space where you could visit and get quick resources to help you with the project that you have had in mind for a while now. Browse below and  just click on the image to download what you need in a PDF . Feel free to send me resources that you feel would be helpful to others, and I will provide them here as well. Happy creating!!


Often I find the most amazing pieces (my opinion only of course) at auctions that are simply in horrible shape. Those are my absolute favorite. I bid on them, excited to win the worst looking item at the auction. Addictive, I tell you!

I drag the “whatever it is” home. And there I stand. Wondering where in the world this will fit in an already full house. Know the feeling?

Lately, I have been focusing on steel and wood combinations. I love the look. So, these are a few things I have learned… (feedback, support, and what the what were you thinking are welcome here!)

1.      An angle grinder cuts right through the rust.

2.      An angle grinder cuts right through the steel too. ( Slow and steady work best)

3.      Not all the rust will be removed, and that is why they call it “rustic”!

4.      Flood Penetrol is a great application to prevent re-rusting. It will have to be reapplied over time.

Name *
Name

Ratchet Straps

Ok, Huge Pet Peeve.

I cannot take the constant mess that regular ratchet straps cause. The feeding the line. The tangled mess. The trying to get the straps were they need to be. So here is a solution that makes me so happy. Retractable Ratchet Straps. I love them.

Hang those barn doors inside with ease.

Hang those barn doors inside with ease.



Get Excited about a protective finish. Yep that is me. 

I use this a lot to protect and finish pieces.

I love this because:

  • it dries so fast

  • there is no odor or bad smell

  • it comes in a satin finish so it just has a sheen and not glossy look. Love it.

  • keeps the natural look of the wood


De-Nail it...

Removing Nails from 1 1/2 inch or thinner reclaimed boards is time consuming. 
This is the cheapest and easiest to use de-nailer that I have found. It hooks to a small air compressor so you can use it anywhere really.

1. Attach it to the air compressor.

2. Place end of nail inside of barrel. 

3. If the nail is bent use the barrel to straighten.

4. Pull trigger.

5. Nails will shoot out to the other side so use caution.

 


Click on image to download PDF.

Click on image to download PDF.